Since the introduction of fiberglass pools, considerable interest has been shown in medium-sized garden pools.
Setting Up the Pool
Care must be taken when planning the site of any pool construction. In order to create a successful bog garden or water garden, its location must be in full sunlight. Though not essential, providing protection from the north can extend flowering periods both autumn and spring. Trees, hedges or buildings all make suitable options. Overhanging trees can be detrimental, both because of the amount of shade they cast and because their leaves will likely fall into the water in autumn. Weeping trees, while initially attractive, will eventually compromise your pool due to lack of sunlight; without it you’ll only get leaves but no flowers on aquatic plants.
Consider also your water source, whether natural or artificial. In general, after initial filling is complete, larger volumes of water should not be needed – even for discolored ponds – to maintain murkiness. A normal domestic supply should suffice provided your pool can be reached with garden hose. Drainage considerations aren’t as crucial if there is lower ground nearby or drains where excess can be siphoned off when emptying is completed.
Dark or natural colors should be chosen when painting pools for an overall natural aesthetic. You may attempt to achieve this through plants, pavers or stones along the edges that slightly overhang the water; or cover them with Myriophyllum proserpinaco ides plants which grow rapidly. As they may become damaged by frost in autumn months, cuttings should be moved into frost-free quarters in autumn for maximum effect.
Deep Water Aquatics
Special attention must be taken when selecting and planting nymphaeas (water-lilies). For shallower waters or marginal environments, plain loam soil should suffice, with bonemeal only added when necessary as many of these aquatics plants tend to spread easily out of control. Planting aquatic plants directly on the base of a pool generally works best; however, many fiberglass pools don’t retain soil on their shelves and so the plants must often be placed in containers instead. Planting directly into soil has many advantages over planting in containers; most plants remain undisturbed for four or five years before needing to be thinned out or repotted, unlike in containers which must be repotted every third year. On the other hand, lifting and replanting containers is much simpler than resoiling an entire pool. Use large plastic containers, or craft your own using 2.5cm (1 in) timber with 2.5cm spaces between slats; alternatively you could even reuse old wicker baskets!
Scirpus albescens aquatics should be cut back to 23-25cm (9-10in). This will protect their roots from being blown over before their roots have established a foothold, while oxygenating aquatics need only be planted into deep parts of a pool or pots beside water-lilies for oxygenating purposes. Marginal aquatics usually need slight thinning each year due to being particularly vigorous varieties – often this involves cutting away some pieces that have spread rapidly, though small pieces can easily be taken out and replanted elsewhere – or cut back by at least half.
Nymphaeas are by far the most prominent deep water aquatics, but there are other notable species worth noting in this section of aquatic plants. These may be grown either independently or collectively with water-lilies in formal pools.
Sometimes they thrive where waterlilies do not due to overhanging trees or limited space for development; Aponogeton and Nuphar contain suitable species.
Hardy marginal aquatics
Most hardy marginal aquatics prefer having their roots submerged by 5 to 7cm (2 to 3in) of water, although some species will tolerate deeper submersion or permanent wet soil conditions. Common genera include Acorus, Butomus Caltha Cotula Cyperus Eriophorum Iris Juncus Menyanthes Mimulus Orontium Pontederia Sagittaria Scirpus Typha
Submerged and floating aquatics are vital to maintaining balance in a pool environment and attaining clear waters. Oxygenating aquatics replace lost oxygen to the water while providing cover and breeding grounds for fish species that have lost oxygen through transpiration, while providing cover from predatory fish that have entered. Unfortunately, oxygenating aquatics have the tendency to be excessive so should be carefully managed in order to achieve balance and achieve clear waters. This process is straightforward; simply pull your garden rake through the underwater vegetation when it becomes overcrowded to remove all surpluses. Incorporating four or five varieties of oxygenating plants at one time is best, with some growing at an alarming rate while others either stand still or die out completely; this is fine since those growing well will take on their duties from less vigorous ones.
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